{"id":29479,"date":"2021-09-03T19:55:08","date_gmt":"2021-09-03T19:55:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/?p=29479"},"modified":"2021-09-03T19:55:09","modified_gmt":"2021-09-03T19:55:09","slug":"a-travelers-tale-yurt-living-in-sary-tash-kyrgyzstan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/a-travelers-tale-yurt-living-in-sary-tash-kyrgyzstan\/","title":{"rendered":"A Traveler\u2019s Tale: Yurt Living in Sary Tash, Kyrgyzstan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"A
A felt yurt in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Photo credit: Caroline Eden<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n

Our guest blogger is\u00a0Caroline Eden<\/a>, a renowned journalist and travel writer from the U.K. specializing in Central Asia<\/a> aToday\u2019s Traveler\u2019s Tale is from <\/em>Caroline Eden<\/em><\/a>, a renowned journalist and travel writer from the U.K. specializing in <\/em>Central Asia<\/em><\/a> and the <\/em>Caucasus<\/em><\/a>. Caroline\u2019s travel stories have appeared in Conde Nast, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveler, among other publications. She also is an author, publishing <\/em>Samarkand,<\/em><\/a> a gorgeous book of recipes and travel stories inspired by her time on the Silk Road.<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

She traveled with MIR on a portion of The Pamir Highway: From the Tien Shan to the High Pamirs<\/a>. Here she recalls a stay in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sound Sleeping in a Yurt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Late-summer rain thundered off the roof of the yurt, splashing bottle-cap-sized holes into the dirt outside. Inside it was warm and cozy. Thick felt, tightly wrapped around the wooden ribs of the yurt, muffled the sound of the falling drops. Mild wood-smoke hung in the air, its escape-route at the top of the yurt temporarily covered up against the deluge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sleep comes easy in a setting like this and I leaned into the yurt\u2019s juk <\/em>(a pile of blankets traditionally placed opposite the entrance), keeping my eyes just open enough to flip through a paperback book while refueling on black tea. Earlier that day, I had travelled on precarious high-altitude roads to the tiny town of Sary Tash from Osh, Kyrgyzstan\u2019s second city. It had been a hair-raising \u2013 but exhilarating \u2013 half-day journey through thick morning fog with multi-colored bunting marking the eye-popping drops at the side of the roads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My host family at the yurt homestay had retreated inside their modern brick house, leaving me to my book and romantic notions of yurt living. Beyond the padded walls of the yurt, horses blew steam from their noses and Kyrgyz men tended to their sheep in the damp. Aside from the house and two other yurts there were no other man-made markers on the surrounding landscape.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"On
On the road towards Tajikistan and the Pamir Highway. Photo credit: Caroline Eden<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Finally, the rain stopped tapping the roof and I gingerly poked my head out. In the sky, a giant rainbow straddled the valley. My host took this fair-weather opportunity to check on me.\u00a0He filled the rose-painted teapot with more tea and placed a plate of\u00a0borsok \u2013\u00a0<\/em>the Central Asian answer to donuts \u2013 before me.\u00a0He bowed as he left and put his right hand on his heart, the traditional silent goodbye. I filled up on these puffy fried balls of dough, dipping them in sugar, before finally easing into a nap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the Road to Tajikistan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I was at this yurt in order to meet up with my MIR travel companions (for our group tour) who were en-route from Kashgar, far-west China. Together, we would drive over the impressively high Kyzyl-Art Pass (4,280 m) and travel onwards into Tajikistan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Three Roads Converge in Sary Tash<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Three roads converge in Sary Tash, making it a useful and spectacularly remote meeting point for travellers overlanding between Tajikistan, China and Kyrgyzstan. There are few amenities in the town, a 20-minute walk away from the yurt \u2013 just a rusty gas pump, a Soviet-style caf\u00e9 and a striking cemetery with yak tails blowing in the wind marking the spot where local horsemen were buried. The nomadic Kyrgyz are skilled horsemen and horses are in the people\u2019s blood \u2013 they trade, race and even date on their sure-footed beasts. The Kyrgyz saying, \u201cIf you\u2019re only given one day\u2019s life, spend half of it in the saddle,\u201d sums it up best.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"The
The Kyrgyz saying, \u201cIf you\u2019re only given one day\u2019s life, spend half of it in the saddle,\u201d sums it up best. Photo credit: Caroline Eden<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Lack of amenities aside (and what can you really expect in such wilderness?),\u00a0the scenery surrounding Sary Tash, when not shrouded in cloud, is nothing short of spectacular. Golden grassy knolls converge with rolling green steppe against a backdrop of fierce grey jutting mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kashgar\u2019s Famous Sunday Market<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Late afternoon the MIR group arrived and we exchanged tales over dinner.\u00a0They described Kashgar\u2019s famous Sunday Market\u00a0where cooks hawked hand-flung noodles, men bartered for fat-bottomed sheep and cauldrons of\u00a0plov<\/em>\u00a0(pilaf) bubbled under awnings.\u00a0I tried to paint an accurate picture of Osh by listing its quirky attractions:\u00a0a real Aeroflot plane in a park, a fertility cave high up on a mountainside and an aging statue of Lenin. The weirdest scene of all in Osh was a remarkably good \u2013 and thoroughly unexpected \u2013 California-style caf\u00e9 where I ate tacos and listened to The Grateful Dead humming from crackly speakers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good Breakfast Then Goodbye to the Yurt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In the morning at breakfast one of our group returned to the yurt after a morning stroll. Peeling back the flap, his eyes widened as he pointed backwards and exclaimed \u201cIt\u2019s pure prairie out there!\u201d And he was right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We popped out of the yurt, one by one, and were met with a rain-drenched grassy steppe that shone a bright emerald green under a huge sun. The green seemed to stretch on forever and ever. We beamed at each other, packed up the jeeps and set off for the onward journey, eager for more rugged adventure and thrillingly unsure of what form it would take.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Travel to Kyrgyzstan with MIR<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MIR has 30 years of travel experience to Central Asia<\/a><\/strong> and was the first American travel company<\/strong> to open an accredited office in Uzbekistan. Clients rave about our on-the-ground support, tour managers, and dedication and commitment to quality.  MIR\u2019s destination expertise has twice<\/strong> earned us a place on National Geographic Adventure<\/strong>\u2019s<\/em> list of \u201cBest Adventure Travel Companies on Earth.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chat with one of our destination specialists today!<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

contact us!<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Our guest blogger is Caroline Eden, a renowned journalist and travel writer from the U.K. specializing in Central Asia and the Caucasus. Caroline\u2019s travel stories have appeared in Conde Nast, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveler, among other publications.She traveled with MIR on a portion of The Pamir Highway & Across Fabled Frontiers. Here she recalls a stay in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":23,"featured_media":2098,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA Traveler\u2019s Tale: Yurt Living in Sary Tash, Kyrgyzstan<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Caroline Eden recalls a stay in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt while traveling a portion of our The Pamir Highway trip.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/a-travelers-tale-yurt-living-in-sary-tash-kyrgyzstan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Traveler\u2019s Tale: Yurt Living in Sary Tash, Kyrgyzstan\" \/>\n<meta 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