{"id":50084,"date":"2023-06-03T07:54:54","date_gmt":"2023-06-03T07:54:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/?p=50084"},"modified":"2025-05-29T19:15:28","modified_gmt":"2025-05-29T19:15:28","slug":"what-is-it-like-to-travel-in-iraq","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/what-is-it-like-to-travel-in-iraq\/","title":{"rendered":"What Is It Like to Travel in Iraq?"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Bustling
Bustling Mutannabi Street in Baghdad. Photo credit: Jake Smith<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
\n

Baklava in Baghdad: A New Perspective on Iraq <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Iraq means something very different to me today than it did just a few weeks ago. I will try in this blog to explain what I mean by that, but, honestly, it is not easy to put into words. First, some background. In early May 2023, I had the opportunity to travel to Iraq with U.S., Canadian, and German motorcyclists, a group MIR has provided travel support to for decades. I had not been to Iraq before.<\/strong> My knowledge of the country was largely limited to what I had seen in the news, plus some insights gained over the past year or so that MIR has been working with Iraq\u2019s nascent tourism industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was, to be candid, apprehensive<\/strong> about traveling to Iraq. My family was worried about me, too. The State Department very firmly cautions against all travel to Iraq. You can and should<\/strong> read their advice<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This travel advisory exists for a reason \u2013 Iraq has had a rough history<\/strong>. But a travel advisory doesn\u2019t mean that you can\u2019t go. Travelers must ultimately make their own assessment of the risks and decide whether to go or not to go<\/strong>. I made my choice and went. I will always be glad that I did.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n

\n
\"A
A model of the Ishtar Gate at the entrance to ancient Babylon. Photo credit: Jake Smith<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
\n

State Department guidance aside, much of what I expected from Iraq was dictated by what I had seen in the media.<\/strong> The Iran-Iraq War. Saddam Hussein. The Gulf War. The U.S. invasion in 2003. The subsequent resistance and civil war. Then ISIS. Until 2017, Iraq seemed to be in an endless spiral of violence, with each conflict blending into the next. Since 2017, we haven\u2019t heard as much about Iraq in mainstream media. At least, I hadn\u2019t, other than perhaps the occasional second- or third-page article on political disputes, corruption, or isolated incidents of violence. Certainly, there hasn\u2019t been much positive coverage<\/strong>. This all shaped my understanding of Iraq, producing an image in my mind that could only be dispelled by spending some time there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was in Iraq for just one week \u2013 not long enough to really get to know the country, but enough to radically change<\/strong> the images once conjured up in my mind when I heard its name. Our route covered Baghdad, Mosul, and Erbil, with day trips to ancient Babylon and the Yazidi temple at Lalish. I personally felt safe the entire time<\/strong> I was in Iraq. I think my travel companions felt the same. Rather than try to generalize about the experience, I will share four short stories, each of which played an important role in shattering my old understanding of Iraq <\/strong>and in building a new, more nuanced picture of the country.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

Baghdad: Inner Karada Stree<\/strong>t<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n
\n
\"Iraqi
Iraqi baklava, a delicious (and perspective changing) treat. Photo credit: Jake Smith<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Our first full day in Baghdad was mostly spent sleeping. We had arrived in the city following a grueling drive from Jordan, and we all needed the rest. In the evening, our guides asked if we wanted to explore the area around the hotel a bit. None of us really knew what to expect. Baghdad at night did not sound safe. Despite our apprehension<\/strong>, most of us were eager to see some of the city, and we ventured out. What we saw and experienced was a total surprise. We went to Inner Karada Street, a shopping district just a short walk from our hotel. After dark the area was packed with families out strolling<\/strong>, shopping, eating, and drinking. There were street stalls selling dates, fresh bread, fruits and vegetables, and all sorts of clothing, toys, cosmetics, perfumes, and more. Caf\u00e9s were serving patrons shawarma, falafel, and kebabs. For dessert, ice cream, baklava, and kunafa<\/em> (a crispy pastry with cheese and syrup) were available on almost every street corner. Women were out. Some had headscarves on. Many did not. Kids were out, many clearly having a sugar-fueled blast with their parents and friends. We stopped and had baklava and coffee at an outdoor caf\u00e9. As I sat there, I couldn\u2019t help smiling<\/strong> as I looked around. People felt safe.<\/strong> You don\u2019t take your kids out to enjoy ice cream and a stroll if you feel unsafe. I felt safe knowing that they felt safe. <\/strong>It was a remarkable experience and one that I will treasure forever.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n\t
\n
\n\n \n\t\t\t
\n\n \n \"A <\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t
\n \n \"A \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n
\n \n \"Kunafa: \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n
\n \n \"Dates \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n
\n \n \"Serving \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n \n
\n
\n