{"id":51223,"date":"2023-12-11T14:05:30","date_gmt":"2023-12-11T14:05:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/?p=51223"},"modified":"2025-02-19T17:52:09","modified_gmt":"2025-02-19T17:52:09","slug":"touring-in-iraq-and-kurdistan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/touring-in-iraq-and-kurdistan\/","title":{"rendered":"Touring in Iraq and Kurdistan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-xd-layout \n  container\n XD-mt--sm XD-mb--sm\n undefined\n XD-h-100--sm XD-h-100--md XD-h-100--lg XD-h-100--xl\" style=\"background-size:cover;background-color:\" uk-scrollspy=\"\"><div class=\"row\"><div class=\" col-sm-12 col-md-8 col-lg-6 col-xl-6 offset-sm-0 offset-md-2 offset-lg-3 offset-xl-3\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>A Fresh Perspective on the Middle East\u2019s Mesopotamian Heartland <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"741\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-1024x741.jpg\" alt=\"Cruising through the Mesopotamian marshes of southern Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\" class=\"wp-image-51259\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-1024x741.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-300x217.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-768x556.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-1536x1112.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-2048x1482.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-150x109.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-600x434.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-1244x900.jpg 1244w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-24-10-2023-10-43-33-MichelBehar-1492x1080.jpg 1492w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cruising through the Mesopotamian marshes of southern Iraq. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\"><em>MIR <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/tour-managers-guides\/\">Tour Manager Michel Behar<\/a> led two of our trips to Iraq in the fall of 2023, including <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/trip\/modern-mesopotamia\/\">Modern Mesopotamia<\/a>. We asked Michel to describe the experience and to highlight some of his favorite spots and experiences in Iraq.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-xd-layout \n  container\n XD-mt--sm XD-mb--sm\n undefined\n XD-h-100--sm XD-h-100--md XD-h-100--lg XD-h-100--xl\" style=\"background-size:cover;background-color:\" uk-scrollspy=\"\"><div class=\"row\"><div class=\" col-sm-12 col-md-8 col-lg-6 col-xl-6 offset-sm-0 offset-md-2 offset-lg-3 offset-xl-3\"><div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A MIR group approaches one of the ziggurats of ancient Mesopotamia. Photo credit: Jake Smith\" class=\"wp-image-51226\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-23-10-2023-14-38-35-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A MIR group approaches one of the ziggurats of ancient Mesopotamia. Photo credit: Michel Behar<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">In October 2023, I led the inaugural two MIR small group tours through Iraq. The first focused on northern Kurdish areas of the country, similar to our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/trip\/essential-kurdistan\/\">Essential Kurdistan<\/a>. The second, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/trip\/modern-mesopotamia\/\">Modern Mesopotamia<\/a>, focused on Baghdad and southern Iraq. Both tours had good-sized groups of participants from diverse backgrounds all across the U.S. We had a fantastic time, learned a lot about both modern Iraq and its ancient history, and benefited from some of the recent improvements to travel infrastructure in the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">I first scouted southern Iraq and Kurdistan in 1989, just when the Iran-Iraq War was coming to an end and a year before Iraq invaded Kuwait. Baghdad was peaceful at that point and the hostilities in Kurdistan had temporarily ceased. The country still felt raw though, with indications of recent conflict all around. I remember seeing razed villages from a local bus, pointed out to me by my Kurdish traveling companions as evidence of Saddam Hussein\u2019s brutality. Basra was off limits because of the ongoing threat from Iran. There were no tourists back then \u2013 just a few expats and guest workers from Bangladesh and Egypt. I was outnumbered by government minders, likely wondering why I was even there. It was a challenging time to be in Iraq.<\/p>\n\n\n<section id=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3-media-grid\" class=\"wp-block-xdf-standardmediagrid uk-section js-xd-components__media-grid uk-padding-remove\">\n\t<div class=\"uk-container uk-width-expand uk-padding-remove\">\n    <div id=\"media-grid-media-grid\" class=\"xd-component__media-grid  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \"  >\n\n      \n\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-feature-image  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3\" data-slide-target=\"1\">\n\n            \n                          <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"An Erbil cityscape. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                      <\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-1  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3\" data-slide-target=\"2\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The rugged but beautiful terrain of Iraqi Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-2  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3\" data-slide-target=\"3\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The 12th-century Choli Minaret in Erbil, Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-3  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3\" data-slide-target=\"4\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Children at a refugee camp in Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-4  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3\" data-slide-target=\"5\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A bustling street scene in Erbil. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n        \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n      \n  <div id=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3-lightbox\" class=\"uk-modal-container xd-components__media-grid-lightbox uk-modal\" uk-modal=\"uk-modal\">\n    <div class=\"uk-modal-dialog uk-modal-body\">\n      <button class=\"uk-modal-close-outside\" type=\"button\" uk-close=\"uk-close\"><\/button>\n      <div id=\"block_003f56b5924bbc7408311e315ade76f3-lightbox-slider\" uk-slider=\"uk-slider\">\n        <div class=\"uk-position-relative\">\n          <div class=\"uk-slider-container\">\n            <ul class=\"uk-slider-items uk-child-width-1-1\">\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-11-39-21-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"An Erbil cityscape. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">An Erbil cityscape.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-55-39-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The rugged but beautiful terrain of Iraqi Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The rugged but beautiful terrain of Iraqi Kurdistan. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-16-10-2023-09-18-46-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The 12th-century Choli Minaret in Erbil, Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The 12th-century Choli Minaret in Erbil, Kurdistan.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-11-10-2023-10-52-11-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Children at a refugee camp in Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Children at a refugee camp in Kurdistan. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-02-18-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A bustling street scene in Erbil. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">A bustling street scene in Erbil.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                          <\/ul>\n          <\/div>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-left uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-previous uk-slidenav\" href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-previous=\"uk-slidenav-previous\" uk-slider-item=\"previous\"><\/a>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-right uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-next uk-slidenav\"\n            href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-next=\"uk-slidenav-next\" uk-slider-item=\"next\"><\/a>\n        <\/div>\n        <ul class=\"uk-slider-nav uk-dotnav\">\n        <\/ul>\n      <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n  <\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center is-style-body-2\"><em><em>(click image to view larger photo)<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">I made a return trip to Iraq in 2018 shortly after ISIS\u2019s defeat by the Iraqi state and its diverse allies. At that point, it seemed that very little had changed since my previous visit decades prior. There were still very few tourists around. The wounds of war felt fresh and checkpoints were numerous, time consuming, and troublesome. War coming to an end was of course a common thread through both trips, so it really isn\u2019t surprising that so little had changed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">My experience leading tours in Iraq in 2023 could not have been more different than in 1989 and 2018. The hospitality and warmth we were shown as Western travelers was remarkable. A conflict broke out in Israel and Palestine while we were on tour, but there was no discernable impact on us and all participants felt safe continuing on the tour. We saw no demonstrations. There was no mention of the conflict in Israel at all, actually. Our local guide explained that people were sick of war and wanted to focus on other things. Sure enough, it seemed that all locals cared about was taking photos with us and learning about who we were and where we were from. It was a fantastic experience and great to get a fresh perspective on Iraq.<\/p>\n\n\n<section id=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c-media-grid\" class=\"wp-block-xdf-standardmediagrid uk-section js-xd-components__media-grid uk-padding-remove\">\n\t<div class=\"uk-container uk-width-expand uk-padding-remove\">\n    <div id=\"media-grid-media-grid\" class=\"xd-component__media-grid  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \"  >\n\n      \n\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-feature-image  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c\" data-slide-target=\"1\">\n\n            \n                          <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Haydar-Khana Mosque on a busy street in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                      <\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-1  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c\" data-slide-target=\"2\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-150x107.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-2859x2048.jpg 2859w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-300x215.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1024x733.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-768x550.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1536x1100.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-2048x1467.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-150x107.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-600x430.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1257x900.jpg 1257w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1508x1080.jpg 1508w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2859px) 100vw, 2859px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Tiles from ancient Babylon on display at the Iraq Museum in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2859\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-2  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c\" data-slide-target=\"3\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A bookseller on Baghdad's Mutannabi Street. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-3  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c\" data-slide-target=\"4\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-150x112.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-150x112.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The interior of a shrine in Karbala. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-4  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c\" data-slide-target=\"5\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Men playing backgammon at a cafe in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n        \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n      \n  <div id=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c-lightbox\" class=\"uk-modal-container xd-components__media-grid-lightbox uk-modal\" uk-modal=\"uk-modal\">\n    <div class=\"uk-modal-dialog uk-modal-body\">\n      <button class=\"uk-modal-close-outside\" type=\"button\" uk-close=\"uk-close\"><\/button>\n      <div id=\"block_1681b5b6f639de6f12146baf4c956d7c-lightbox-slider\" uk-slider=\"uk-slider\">\n        <div class=\"uk-position-relative\">\n          <div class=\"uk-slider-container\">\n            <ul class=\"uk-slider-items uk-child-width-1-1\">\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-47-38-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Haydar-Khana Mosque on a busy street in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The Haydar-Khana Mosque on a busy street in Baghdad. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-150x107.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-2859x2048.jpg 2859w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-300x215.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1024x733.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-768x550.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1536x1100.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-2048x1467.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-150x107.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-600x430.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1257x900.jpg 1257w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-19-10-2023-09-48-56-MichelBehar-1508x1080.jpg 1508w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2859px) 100vw, 2859px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Tiles from ancient Babylon on display at the Iraq Museum in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2859\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Tiles from ancient Babylon on display at the Iraq Museum in Baghdad.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-12-03-19-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A bookseller on Baghdad's Mutannabi Street. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">A bookseller on Baghdad&#8217;s Mutannabi Street.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-150x112.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-150x112.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-20-10-2023-20-27-39-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The interior of a shrine in Karbala. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The interior of a shrine in Karbala.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-17-06-48-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Men playing backgammon at a cafe in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Men playing backgammon at a cafe in Baghdad. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                          <\/ul>\n          <\/div>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-left uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-previous uk-slidenav\" href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-previous=\"uk-slidenav-previous\" uk-slider-item=\"previous\"><\/a>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-right uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-next uk-slidenav\"\n            href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-next=\"uk-slidenav-next\" uk-slider-item=\"next\"><\/a>\n        <\/div>\n        <ul class=\"uk-slider-nav uk-dotnav\">\n        <\/ul>\n      <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n  <\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center is-style-body-2\"><em><em>(click image to view larger photo)<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">With that said, here is a list of some of my favorite on-tour experiences and sights in Iraq, in both Kurdistan and in the south of the country:<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-xd-layout \n  container\n XD-mt--sm XD-mb--sm\n undefined\n XD-h-100--sm XD-h-100--md XD-h-100--lg XD-h-100--xl\" style=\"background-size:cover;background-color:\" uk-scrollspy=\"\"><div class=\"row\"><div class=\" col-sm-12 col-md-8 col-lg-6 col-xl-6 offset-sm-0 offset-md-2 offset-lg-3 offset-xl-3\">\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">My Favorite Experiences and Sights in Kurdistan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Mountains and rivers. <\/strong>You may think of Iraq as a sand-filled desert, but actually much of Kurdistan is lushly vegetated with mountains, waterfalls, and rivers. It even snows there!<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Diversity. <\/strong>Not all Iraqis speak Arabic. The Kurds speak an Indo-European language related to Persian. It is thought that the Kurds descend from the ancient Medes. Others in Kurdistan speak Aramaic and Turkish dialects.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Ancient Christian monasteries.<\/strong> Kurdistan is home to ancient monasteries like the Rabban Hormizd Monastery, which is Chaldean Catholic, and the Monastery of St. Matthew, which is Syriac Orthodox.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Lalish.<\/strong> Lalish is the spiritual center of the Yazidis, a persecuted and unique people. It is a beautiful and tranquil spot. You can read more about it <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/what-is-it-like-to-travel-in-iraq\/\">here<\/a>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Amedi. <\/strong>This scenically perched town has been a trading center for 3,500 years or more. Muslims, Christians, and Jews coexisted here for centuries.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Gaugamela.<\/strong> While not much remains today, these fields are the site at which Alexander the Great defeated the Achaemenid Empire, changing the course of history in the region.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Erbil. <\/strong>Erbil is a thriving city and the effects of decades of conflict can barely be felt in its bustling and developed center. It is home to an amazing bazaar and a spectacular citadel overlooks the old town.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Hamilton Road.<\/strong> This incredible feat of engineering was built over a century ago. The road passes through stunningly beautiful terrain and has an interesting story tying into British colonialism in the region.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>The legacy of war. <\/strong>Kurdistan has a sobering and tragic recent history. We learned from victims of ISIS at a refugee camp. We also learned about the brutality of Saddam Hussein at a museum in Sulaymaniyah and while visiting the town of Halabja.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<section id=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588-media-grid\" class=\"wp-block-xdf-standardmediagrid uk-section js-xd-components__media-grid uk-padding-remove\">\n\t<div class=\"uk-container uk-width-expand uk-padding-remove\">\n    <div id=\"media-grid-media-grid\" class=\"xd-component__media-grid  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \"  >\n\n      \n\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-feature-image  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588\" data-slide-target=\"1\">\n\n            \n                          <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A monk at a monastery in Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                      <\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-1  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588\" data-slide-target=\"2\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Hamilton Road, cut through the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-2  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588\" data-slide-target=\"3\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Yazidi temple at Lalish. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-3  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588\" data-slide-target=\"4\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A market scene in Kurdistan, Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-4  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588\" data-slide-target=\"5\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Amna Suraka, a museum in Sulaymaniyah, Kurdistan that documents human rights abuses under Saddam Hussein's regime. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n        \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n      \n  <div id=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588-lightbox\" class=\"uk-modal-container xd-components__media-grid-lightbox uk-modal\" uk-modal=\"uk-modal\">\n    <div class=\"uk-modal-dialog uk-modal-body\">\n      <button class=\"uk-modal-close-outside\" type=\"button\" uk-close=\"uk-close\"><\/button>\n      <div id=\"block_e891cce894ab242c4ca3e3764ca08588-lightbox-slider\" uk-slider=\"uk-slider\">\n        <div class=\"uk-position-relative\">\n          <div class=\"uk-slider-container\">\n            <ul class=\"uk-slider-items uk-child-width-1-1\">\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-11-55-54-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A monk at a monastery in Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                                        <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-11-05-53-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Hamilton Road, cut through the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Hamilton Road, cut through the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-10-10-2023-16-55-32-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Yazidi temple at Lalish. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The Yazidi temple at Lalish.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-13-10-2023-12-25-58-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"A market scene in Kurdistan, Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">A market scene in Kurdistan, Iraq. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-14-10-2023-16-03-35-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Amna Suraka, a museum in Sulaymaniyah, Kurdistan that documents human rights abuses under Saddam Hussein's regime. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Amna Suraka, a museum in Sulaymaniyah, Kurdistan that documents human rights abuses under Saddam Hussein&#8217;s regime. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                          <\/ul>\n          <\/div>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-left uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-previous uk-slidenav\" href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-previous=\"uk-slidenav-previous\" uk-slider-item=\"previous\"><\/a>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-right uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-next uk-slidenav\"\n            href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-next=\"uk-slidenav-next\" uk-slider-item=\"next\"><\/a>\n        <\/div>\n        <ul class=\"uk-slider-nav uk-dotnav\">\n        <\/ul>\n      <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n  <\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center is-style-body-2\"><em><em>(click image to view larger photo)<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-xd-layout \n  container\n XD-mt--sm XD-mb--sm\n undefined\n XD-h-100--sm XD-h-100--md XD-h-100--lg XD-h-100--xl\" style=\"background-size:cover;background-color:\" uk-scrollspy=\"\"><div class=\"row\"><div class=\" col-sm-12 col-md-8 col-lg-6 col-xl-6 offset-sm-0 offset-md-2 offset-lg-3 offset-xl-3\">\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">My Favorite Experiences and Sights in South Iraq<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Recovering infrastructure. <\/strong>Iraq\u2019s roads, hotels, airports, and even healthcare and educational systems are recovering. It is remarkable to contrast this to what I saw on past trips.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Baghdad. <\/strong>This ancient city is one of the world\u2019s most historically important places, but it is also a vibrant and modern home to millions. I loved strolling the lively Mutannabi Street and enjoying tea with locals at a caf\u00e9. Souq al Safafeer is a wonderful market located nearby.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Malwiya Minaret.<\/strong> This imposing structure is located in Samarra. It has a unique spiral shape and was built by the Abbasids in the 9th century CE.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Kufa and Najaf. <\/strong>These cities are home to some of the most important shrines and mosques to Shia Muslims. Their gold domes are beautiful, and it is fascinating to spend time amidst the seas of pilgrims visiting from around Iraq and the world.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Marsh Arabs.<\/strong> The Marsh Arabs have historically populated the marshes and wetlands of southern Iraq. We explored their homeland by boat and enjoyed a lunch of masgouf (marinated and roasted fish).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Ur and Uruk.<\/strong> These deeply ancient sites boast ziggurats built five millennia ago, around the same time that cuneiform writing was being developed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Gertrude Bell. <\/strong>We explore Bell\u2019s life and legacy through a visit to Ukhaidir Palace, which was first surveyed by her in the early 20th century. Bell played a key role in the development of modern Iraq.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Ezekiel\u2019s Tomb. <\/strong>This ancient building is a relic of the once thriving Jewish community in Iraq, a community that existed for millennia, since the Babylonian Exile.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Basra. <\/strong>Off limits to me in 1989, we were able to enjoy a pleasant sightseeing cruise on the Shatt al Arab (the confluence of the Tigris and the Euphrates) this time around.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<section id=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7-media-grid\" class=\"wp-block-xdf-standardmediagrid uk-section js-xd-components__media-grid uk-padding-remove\">\n\t<div class=\"uk-container uk-width-expand uk-padding-remove\">\n    <div id=\"media-grid-media-grid\" class=\"xd-component__media-grid  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \"  >\n\n      \n\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-feature-image  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7\" data-slide-target=\"1\">\n\n            \n                          <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"MIR travelers exploring the Sumerian city of Uruk, which dates back at least 7,000 years. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                      <\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t          <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-1  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7\" data-slide-target=\"2\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-150x113.jpeg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-2731x2048.jpeg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-600x450.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1200x900.jpeg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1440x1080.jpeg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Masgouf - a dish of grilled fish popular in Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-2  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7\" data-slide-target=\"3\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Great Mosque of Kufa in southern Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-3  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7\" data-slide-target=\"4\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Traditional architecture in Basra, Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n                  <div class=\"xd-component__media-grid-4  js-xd-components__media-grid-lightbox-open \" data-lightbox=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7\" data-slide-target=\"5\">\n                          \n              <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Locals at Mustansiriya Madrassah in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>            \t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n        \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n      \n  <div id=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7-lightbox\" class=\"uk-modal-container xd-components__media-grid-lightbox uk-modal\" uk-modal=\"uk-modal\">\n    <div class=\"uk-modal-dialog uk-modal-body\">\n      <button class=\"uk-modal-close-outside\" type=\"button\" uk-close=\"uk-close\"><\/button>\n      <div id=\"block_7875f01b83a9a95a76bc75024aa0e7f7-lightbox-slider\" uk-slider=\"uk-slider\">\n        <div class=\"uk-position-relative\">\n          <div class=\"uk-slider-container\">\n            <ul class=\"uk-slider-items uk-child-width-1-1\">\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-22-10-2023-14-17-25-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"MIR travelers exploring the Sumerian city of Uruk, which dates back at least 7,000 years. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">MIR travelers exploring the Sumerian city of Uruk, which dates back at least 7,000 years.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-150x113.jpeg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-2731x2048.jpeg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-600x450.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1200x900.jpeg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/IMG_9131-1440x1080.jpeg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Masgouf - a dish of grilled fish popular in Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                                        <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-21-10-2023-11-47-27-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"The Great Mosque of Kufa in southern Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">The Great Mosque of Kufa in southern Iraq. <\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-25-10-2023-09-12-37-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Traditional architecture in Basra, Iraq. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Traditional architecture in Basra, Iraq.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                              <li>\n                <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"\n  src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/themes\/mir\/build\/images\/png\/lazy-loading.png\"\n  data-src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg\"\n  data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-2731x2048.jpg 2731w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/Foto-18-10-2023-11-15-15-MichelBehar-1440x1080.jpg 1440w\"\n  sizes=\"(max-width: 2731px) 100vw, 2731px\"\n  class=\"lazyload \"\n  alt=\"Locals at Mustansiriya Madrassah in Baghdad. Photo credit: Michel Behar\"\n  height=\"2048\"\n  width=\"2731\"\n\/>                    <span class=\"photo-caption\">Locals at Mustansiriya Madrassah in Baghdad.<\/span>\n                                                            <span class=\"photo-credit\"> Michel Behar<\/span>\n                                  <\/li>\n                          <\/ul>\n          <\/div>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-left uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-previous uk-slidenav\" href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-previous=\"uk-slidenav-previous\" uk-slider-item=\"previous\"><\/a>\n          <a class=\"uk-position-center-right uk-position-small uk-hidden-hover uk-icon uk-slidenav-next uk-slidenav\"\n            href=\"#\" uk-slidenav-next=\"uk-slidenav-next\" uk-slider-item=\"next\"><\/a>\n        <\/div>\n        <ul class=\"uk-slider-nav uk-dotnav\">\n        <\/ul>\n      <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n  <\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center is-style-body-2\"><em><em>(click image to view larger photo)<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-cover alignfull\" style=\"min-height:250px\"><span aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-cover__background has-background-dim\"><\/span><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1157\" class=\"wp-block-cover__image-background wp-image-50088\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-scaled.jpeg\" data-object-fit=\"cover\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-scaled.jpeg 2560w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-300x136.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-1024x463.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-768x347.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-1536x694.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-2048x925.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-150x68.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-600x271.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-1600x723.jpeg 1600w, https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG_9173-1920x868.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><div class=\"wp-block-cover__inner-container is-layout-flow wp-block-cover-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center has-white-color has-text-color has-large-font-size\"><strong>Travel to Iraq with MIR<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-xd-layout \n  container\n XD-mt--sm XD-mb--sm\n undefined\n XD-h-100--sm XD-h-100--md XD-h-100--lg XD-h-100--xl\" style=\"background-size:cover;background-color:\" uk-scrollspy=\"\"><div class=\"row\"><div class=\" col-sm-12 col-md-8 col-lg-6 col-xl-6 offset-sm-0 offset-md-2 offset-lg-3 offset-xl-3\">\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">Tourism is still a nascent industry in Iraq and one can\u2019t expect the same level of development found in some neighboring countries. Southern Iraq in particular lags behind in terms of infrastructure and development and one must expect rough edges at the sights we visit, the hotels we stay at, and while traveling from city to city. A sense of adventure is imperative. Kurdistan feels a bit more polished, but still cannot be compared to places like Jordan or Turkey where tourism is very well developed. That is part of why I loved visiting Iraq this time around. It is a fascinating place and at a critical point in history where the creature comforts and smoothness that most of us have come to expect while traveling are just starting to mix in with raw authenticity. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-body-2\">You can find details on departure dates and read more about <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/trip\/essential-kurdistan\/\">Essential Kurdistan<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/trip\/modern-mesopotamia\/\">Modern Mesopotamia here<\/a>. Please also read more about travel in Iraq on our blog. There is <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/why-travel-to-southern-iraq\/\">an introduction to southern Iraq here<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/why-travel-to-kurdistan\/\">one on Kurdistan here<\/a>, or read MIR staffer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/what-is-it-like-to-travel-in-iraq\/\">Jake Smith\u2019s account of his recent travels in Iraq<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\"><strong><strong><strong>Chat with one of our destination specialists today!<\/strong><\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:46px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button aligncenter\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/contact\/\">contact us!<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A MIR Tour Manager recently made a return trip to Iraq, leading one of our small groups. The experience changed his perspective on travel and tourism in Iraq.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":51228,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[38,50],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Touring in Iraq and Kurdistan<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A MIR Tour Manager recently led one of our small groups to Iraq. The experience changed his perspective on travel and tourism in Iraq.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/touring-in-iraq-and-kurdistan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Touring in Iraq and Kurdistan\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A MIR Tour Manager recently led one of our small groups to Iraq. 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