{"id":56119,"date":"2025-09-08T11:58:08","date_gmt":"2025-09-08T11:58:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/?p=56119"},"modified":"2025-09-09T02:16:17","modified_gmt":"2025-09-09T02:16:17","slug":"returning-to-iraq","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mircorp.com\/returning-to-iraq\/","title":{"rendered":"Returning to Iraq"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Beyond the headlines, Iraq reveals faith, history, and human connection<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The restored Ziggurat at Ur. Credit: Jake Smith<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

My first trip to Iraq was in the spring of 2023. I went with a group of motorcyclists, crossing the Jordanian border with them and accompanying them as far as the northern Kurdish city of Erbil. That journey left a lasting impression, and as I thought about returning to Iraq, I realized how much my perspective had already shifted. I wrote a blog about my first journey<\/a>, and my concluding paragraph in that blog reads:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBefore, in my mind, Iraq meant only danger, war, and suffering. Those parts of Iraq are real and important to acknowledge<\/strong>. But Iraq\u2019s story is not so simple<\/strong>, and, certainly, it is not all dark<\/strong>. Iraq, for me now, also means families out enjoying an evening ice cream<\/strong> together at a street caf\u00e9 in Baghdad. It means Yazidi kids happily posing for photos<\/strong> against the incredibly scenic backdrop of Lalish.<\/em> It means Shia militiamen who couldn\u2019t care less that I am an American (other than joking with me about it). It means a<\/strong> bustling bazaar filled with shoppers<\/strong> in the old town of Erbil. Travel can have that power. Travel can forge connections and shape one\u2019s understanding of the world<\/strong>, especially in places like Iraq. I want to go back already, and the next time, I\u2019ll leave my apprehension behind<\/strong>.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Well, just over a year later, I went back.<\/strong> Despite what I had written, I was yet again a bit apprehensive. The summer and fall of 2024 were a time of great tension in the Middle East, even more so than when I had visited Iraq in 2023, and there was no avoiding the influence of all the negative news out there. I am glad I worked through my fear and went back though. Just like the first time, Iraq did not disappoint.<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This time around I was traveling with MIR\u2019s regularly scheduled Modern Mesopotamia<\/a> small group tour. We started in Baghdad, then visited Babylon, Karbala, Najaf, Nasiriyah, and Basra. The first part of the tour was familiar territory for me. I had visited Baghdad and Babylon the last time around. The rest was new. Here are my four favorite experiences <\/strong>from those places that were new for me:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. The Shrines of Karbala and Najaf<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The iconic gold-domed shrines and mosques of Iraq\u2019s Shia pilgrimage cities<\/strong> (Karbala and Najaf) constitute some of the most impressive (and ornate) Islamic architecture on the planet. They are truly spectacular, inside and out. They are also welcoming and open places. <\/strong>Unlike certain other Islamic sights throughout the region, non-Muslims are welcome to enter and respectfully view the sites. The experience was humbling. It was crowded, yes, but also an opportunity to witness something few non-Shias have been able to see. I saw men weeping as they mourned the martyrdom of Imam Husayn. I saw peaceful prayer and contemplation. And, of course, kids laughing and playing throughout. All against one of the most magnificently ornate backdrops I have ever seen<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. Sumerian Ur and Uruk<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Exploring the archaeological site of Uruk. Credit: Jake Smith<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Located near Nasiriyah, the ancient Sumerian cities of Ur and Uruk<\/strong> are UNESCO-listed and high on the bucket list for anyone interested in the history of Mesopotamia. Wandering through the excavations and millennia-old ziggurats<\/strong> at these sites puts a lot of the modern news about Iraq into perspective. The country has a truly ancient history and has persevered through so much. The two ancient cities are quite different from one another. Ur is more developed with a walkway and partially reconstructed ziggurat. Uruk is less developed and at times it feels like you are an archaeologist exploring it for the first time<\/strong>, amidst the expansive desert scenery. At one point our guide reached down and picked up a piece of rock. Turning it over, he showed us cuneiform inscriptions that had been etched millennia ago<\/strong> and left by archaeologists in situ<\/em> on the desert floor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. The Mesopotamian Marshes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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